Return To 1977 Chapter 782: Can eat
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One meal brought Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan's admiration and curiosity for "Zhang Dashao" to the top.
Naturally, they became more and more respectful, and their fur became quite smooth.
And the two of them took on a task spontaneously and consciously.
It is a rotation, making tea for "Zhang Dashao" every day.
The tea leaves were actually made of "Gao Mo'er", because the old man drank it smoothly and you changed it for him and got scolded in vain.
The key point is to hold "Zhang Dashao" a little bit and make him tea early according to his habit.
Every time you have to clean the tea jar first, and then use a bottom layer of tea leaves, no more and no less.
After pouring boiling water, you have to pour out the hot water. This is called "making tea".
After that, you can cover the teapot tightly and let it sit.
Waiting for the old man to come every day, he would sit there and pick up the teapot himself. The tea would taste just right and the temperature would be just right.
Of course, these two guys have a purpose for being so diligent.
Like Hong Yanwu, he always gets close to "Zhang Dashao" when he has free time, and gets tired of making insinuations.
First, I deliberately mentioned what Master Chang Jing once said, hoping to find out the origin and experience of "Zhang Dashao" from the beginning.
Second, it is a pity that no one will succeed in succeeding in Master Chang's craftsmanship.
He wanted "Zhang Dashao" to be saddened by the death of a rabbit and feel the danger of losing his craft, so as to stimulate the old man's desire to accept a disciple.
Thirdly, I am just greedy again.
For this reason, he repeatedly asked in reply, hoping that "Zhang Dashao" would take them to continue eating delicacies such as "Peach Blossom Pan" and "Jade Soup".
It's a pity that despite all his efforts, these first two are totally useless.
"Zhang Dashao" is an old smoker, what have you never seen in your life? Then it's safe.
Hong Yanwu's ability to "talk, learn, and sing" that he has tried so well with others is of no use to him.
As for the last one, "Zhang Dashao" thought about it and realized that two silly boys were willing to spend money. Since he would not suffer any loss, he agreed.
If you want to say it, you really have to admit that a good cook who knows how to eat and cook is the person who knows how to eat and drink best in the world, so this determines that the way of eating "Zhang Dashao" is extraordinary.
First of all, because he knows so much about cooking, "Zhang Dashao" will never be fooled by the reputation of a store and blindly follow the crowd, going to well-known "famous restaurants" to eat well-known "famous restaurants". vegetable".
He always has his own unique choice. To put it bluntly, he only recognizes people, not places.
For example, during the first meal hosted by Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan, "Zhang Dashao" wanted to eat roast duck.
Unexpectedly, he did not go to the famous "Judequan" at home and abroad, nor to the "Bianyi Fang" recognized by people in the capital. Instead, he called someone first.
I waited until I got a reply from the other side of the phone, saying, "Come on, we can do it."
Then he took Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan to Xuanwumen Inner Street and found the door of Youyishun, a halal restaurant that operated "explosion, grilling and rinsing".
Going to a halal restaurant to eat roast duck sounds novel, right?
But anyone who thinks this way is ignorant.
Because the roast duck in Beijing is actually divided into three schools.
One is "braised oven roast duck", one is "hanging oven roast duck", and the other is "halal roast duck".
According to "Zhang Dashao", the founder of "Halal Roast Duck" in Beijing is a chef named Hu Baozhen.
The "No. 1 Halal Roast Duck" first learned the art at the old "Bianbi Fang", and later combined the methods of "Stewed Oven Roast Duck" and "Palace Roast Duck" to create the unique skill of "Halal Roast Duck" .
So this dish didn’t take long from its creation to its fame. In fact, it only lasted less than a hundred years.
But don't forget, in any industry, the most feared thing is "specialization in the industry".
Precisely because Hu Baozhen has specialized in roasting duck all his life, the "halal roast duck" created by him is extremely delicious.
In the late Republic of China, his craftsmanship not only surpassed the two old stores "Judequan" and "Biaobianfang", becoming the most expensive roast duck on the market in Beijing, he himself also won a prize for it. Nickname - "Duck Bear".
In those days, if you wanted to eat his duck, you had to have money. You had to make a reservation several days in advance to get it.
So Hu Baozhen’s status among roast duck masters is the same as that of Pan Bingheng, the “jade gourmet” in the jade shop. He is recognized by everyone.
As for today, although this famous chef has passed away, fortunately, his skills have not been lost.
The Master Ai whom "Zhang Dashao" went to find on this trip was the only successor taught by "Ya Hu".
And precisely because "Halal roast duck" did not receive the attention it deserved after the great changes in history, its reputation was buried and only survived in a corner.
Nowadays, not only the traditional method is still maintained, but a duck only sells for 7.7 yuan. It's really delicious, not expensive, and economical.
On the contrary, the famous "Judequan" and "Biandianfang" have turned into mass production due to the large number of customers they receive every day, and their technical standards have been lax.
Even the ducks selected for sale have been changed from 120 days to 70 to 65 days, lowering the standard.
Then we have to compare, inside and outside, the gap is huge.
With that said, aren't Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan interested? They were only thinking about this duck along the way.
Everyone is curious about the difference between the "halal roast duck" so praised by "Zhang Dashao" and the ones they have eaten.
After the results arrived, it certainly lived up to expectations. It was delicious. It was the best roast duck that Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan had ever tasted.
This is by no means empty talk, because the difference between "halal roast duck" and the two types of roast duck that people are accustomed to is indeed significant.
One, it’s as big as a duck.
Because the standard 120-day-old "Beijing White Duck" is used. The roast duck that Hong Yanwu and the others ate weighed more than three kilograms. The meat should be sliced into three large plates, at least one and a half kilograms.
In addition, the taste is quite good. The meat is leaner and not so tender, but it has a duck flavor.
Two, there are unique skills.
The unique trick of the halal roasting method is that the duck is particular about removing the lymph nodes (that is, the dates), and special spices are sealed in the duck's belly, so that the roasted duck will not be fishy at all.
These two points are the advantages of "halal roast duck" over the other two roast duck techniques. Halal, clean.
Three, obey the rules.
Master Ai blows air on the duck before roasting according to the traditional method. This is to foam the fat and separate the skin and meat.
Bake it in the oven for about 15 minutes, and the oil will come out from the hair holes, which is equivalent to self-frying, so as to ensure crispyness.
In addition, the traditional method of making roast duck slices is generally "eat two".
First remove the skin from the duck breast and give each guest a piece to taste. Because it is very crispy, it must be eaten while it is hot, otherwise the oil will come out when it cools.
Secondly, every cut must have meat and skin. When the duck head and tenderloin are finally served, it means that the set has been completed.
As for the 108 knives and 118 knives for a slice of duck, that is just a standard for technical assessment and cannot be used in actual operations. Otherwise, the time will be too long and the duck will be completely cold.
However, some famous stores have omitted these essential steps. This kind of "improvement" not only makes the taste worse, but also makes the customer's experience worse.
Fourth, pay attention to details.
Excipients are also very important.
The lotus leaf cakes like the "halal roast duck" are freshly baked. Although you can't read the newspaper through them, they are soft.
It’s something to eat. The appearance is never as important as the taste. Only with this kind of roll can you get the crispiness of roast duck.
It is precisely for this reason that "halal roast duck" does not approve of rolling cucumbers and duck meat into pancakes.
But I think the fragrant cucumber sticks are just for eating alone to clear the mouth. If you have to roll it in, it will reduce the taste of the duck meat, which is charred on the outside and tender on the inside.
And soup. For the same reason, the duck soup of "Halal Roast Duck" is not a thick soup, but a clear soup with vegetables, which is refreshing and relieves greasiness.
All in all, from beginning to end, this "halal roast duck" not only allowed people to appreciate a traditional skill, but also felt a kind of human kindness. I also experienced a kind of food culture.
Not to mention the cheap roast duck that will be seen everywhere in the future, there are not as many "Judequan" and "Bianxiangfang" that are becoming more and more like "assembly line". No wonder it became the top dish that year compared with the two time-honored brands.
This is called real roast duck. Only a true expert like "Zhang Dashao" can find it.
In addition to the above, there is another deep-rooted principle in "Zhang Dashao's" food views.
That is to say, the quality of a dish is determined by ingredients accounting for 60% and craftsmanship accounting for 40%.
So he has always had his own insistence and requirements on the choice of texture of ingredients.
If nothing else, you can understand it just by watching him go there without looking at the menu or how the chef orders.
Take this roast duck as an example. He took his time and told Master Ai so.
"Is the asparagus fresh today? If it's fresh, just pick one for me... Are there fresh broad beans? Are they the kind with two layers of skin peeled off?... It's this month, green onions, so you have to get them from Shandong. 'Tall feet white'. I have to peel the cucumbers. I am old and have bad teeth... By the way, don't forget to stew the cabbage hearts with the remaining duck racks and skim the oil in the clear soup... Also, there are leftover roast ducks. Don’t waste the duck fat. Use it to give me a pickle."
(Note: Asparagus, in Jingcheng dialect, refers to winter bamboo shoots, which is derived from the shape of the bamboo shoot tips. Huangcai, in Jingcheng dialect, refers to eggs. Why it is called so has been explained before, so I won’t repeat it)
Listen, how can you not be secretly impressed by these words?
Ah, the so-called gourmets do not follow the restaurant's menu, but have their own opinions, pay attention to the freshest ingredients, and only seek pure taste rather than luxury.
Even in the future, the more Hong Yanwu became familiar with "Zhang Dashao", the more he discovered the inertia of his view.
What is expensive should be reasonable, and what kind of food should be cooked. The material cannot be bad, nor can it be too good.
Let’s just say that dried shrimps are mixed with celery. Celery is very cheap, so you have to choose what you can do with celery and what you can’t.
To eat "Zhang Da Shao", you have to take out the middle one and mix it with dried shrimps.
Celery is not expensive at all, but is it expensive if you only pick out a little bit of it in a bundle?
And the same applies to dried shrimps. The "big spoon" needs to be more than 3 centimeters, just like a big hook. The highest grade is also called dried prawns. Hong Yanwu only saw it when he was in Bincheng.
For another example, when making a plate of fried eel paste, the coriander should be short and strong rather than thin and long, and the pepper must also be what it needs to meet the requirements of this dish.
So all in all, as long as "Zhang Dashao" is willing to spend money to eat, it will always be worth the money.
Of course, others cannot learn this, because it is based on the extremely special personal conditions of "Zhang Dashao".
Not only does it require extraordinary professional knowledge, but also because he has acquaintances wherever he goes and can communicate directly with the chef.
Otherwise, he would not be able to eat the food at all. How could anyone tolerate him being so picky?
Finally, "Zhang Dashao" also pays special attention to when to eat what. This kind of seasonal food not only refers to the ingredients, but also refers to people's physiological changes and needs.
For example, throughout the year, people’s stomachs are weak in the hot summer weather, so they have to eat lighter and rely on side dishes to whet their appetites. Autumn is rich in products and fresh goods are everywhere, so it is naturally the best time to try new things. In winter, when the weather is cold and freezing, people need fat, so they need to eat more meat and fish.
These are the principles of ordering food.
And there are many foods sold outside that are only available at certain times, such as lotus leaf porridge in summer and "fried triangles" in autumn and winter. If you know how to make it, you may never taste it in your life.
Taking the whole day as an example, "Zhang Dashao" also has a rule, which is to set lunch as the main meal of the day.
You must have a full meal at noon, and eat the most sumptuous meal. On the contrary, the drinking is very controlled, and at most it is just a little tipsy. It focuses on replenishing energy and nutrition.
It's different at night. The old man never eats too much and only eats liquid food, mainly to recuperate his intestines and stomach and sleep well.
If Hong Yanwu insists on treating guests, but the hospitality is too great, he can at most just drink wine and eat some side dishes and snacks.
But this is Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan looking for trouble for themselves.
Because you can have a few more glasses of wine in the evening, and the side dishes and snacks that accompany the wine must be exquisite, and the old man will never make do with it.
The sauced duck at "Pu Wufang", the barbecued pork at "Wufangzhai", the hare breast at "Xiaomiju", the assorted vegetables at "Quansu Zhai", the fried deer tail at "Sha Guoju"... As long as the old man opens his mouth, They both had to buy in circles.
But the good thing is that the old man often makes some homemade things to add variety.
Like the crispy fish and lamb from the South, or the fried **** pine and mushroom bamboo shoots from Fuzhou, the fried crunch and vegetarian pork chop from Beijing, the bad chicken from Zhejiang, the sausage from Sichuan, the sweet and sour spicy food from both the north and the south. Stir-fried diced pheasant with cabbage and pickled cucumber, etc.
It is no exaggeration to say that when put together, there will be a dazzling array of seven or eight butterflies every time, which is a snack convention all over the country.
So, after following "Zhang Dashao" to eat like this, within a few weeks, Hong Yanwu and Chen Liquan immediately felt that their realm had improved.
At least they have a rough idea of what someone who truly "can eat" should look like.
That is, you won’t follow hearsay, follow what others say, and won’t be preconceived.
The pursuit is definitely not famous food, but it must be delicious.
At the same time, it must also comply with the laws of nature and conform to the principles of health preservation.